Plus Size and Sustainable Fashion: Is It A Good Fit?
For the most-part of my life, I’ve struggled to wear the clothes that I’ve actually wanted to wear. Whether it be because it’s a nightmare to find jeans that fit my shape, the arms on cute shirts are too tight, or dresses were made with straight-sized hem lengths in mind, establishing my own personal style has been nothing short of easy.
I grew up wanting to work in fashion, but not able to wear the majority of the clothes that I pined for. The same applied when I went to work in fashion, working with clothes that weren’t designed with my size in mind, let alone manufactured for it. I think what may have gravitated me to styling was being able to have control over fashion looks, and for the first time not being rejected from it for not being the right shape or size. I worked with people that I knew would fit into whatever clothes were put in front of them – a concept that I – and other plus size fashion girls alike – could only dream of. So when the plus size market began to expand (it’s still not perfect, but it’s a start), I got excited. As someone who bounces around between an 18 and 22 (seemingly depending on what day of the week it is), I finally found myself in a position where I could curate a wardrobe for myself that I actually loved, filled with clothes I actually wanted to wear. The fashion girl who’d never fit in – literally – to the trends that she’d wanted to emulate so desperately finally got given an opportunity to wear something in her size that wasn’t black, oversized, and more importantly, felt like her.
I think plus size women the world over can relate to this. We’ve waited what feels like an eternity to be able to embrace fashion in the same way that our straight-sized counterparts have been for decades. There’s still a very large percentage of plus size women who aren’t yet being appropriately catered for by brands, so there’s still a long way to go. But for many of us, the past couple of years have been a breathe of fresh air, to both our wardrobes and our self-confidence. Which is why I find the topic of sustainability a difficult line to toe.
First off, let me start by saying that I think that sustainability in all senses is really important. We need to look after our environment in an appropriate way; we need to take imminent action in order to help halt climate change, and that includes monitoring our own impact. Sustainable fashion comes in many formats, but ultimately it turns away from fast fashion, and looks for more sustainable (obviously) options. For example, shopping second-hand and/or vintage, up-cycling the clothes you already own, hiring instead of buying, or buying pieces from ethically-sourcing, greener brands. The main, most obvious problem here, is much like fast fashion was in the beginning, it’s predominantly catering to straight-sized consumers. Second-hand and vintage shopping is often a nightmare for anyone over a size 16, and I think we can all agree that finding something in a charity or thrift shop in a plus size is like looking for a needle in a haystack.
Companies that offer clothes for hire are ingenious in concept, yet again, regularly overlook the potential of plus size customers. The same again goes for many ethical fashion brands – although there are the odd few who offer more for larger bodies – so it’s no wonder that the plus size community can feel so excluded from sustainable fashion, especially those living in bodies larger than that of myself, a small-fat. Some brands offer custom pieces to fit your measurements, but when you’re used to spending less on a new addition to your wardrobe, a hefty price tag might just not be a feasible option. Ethical brands, generally speaking, are also more expensive than the average high street store due to their pricier processes and overheads that make the products themselves greener. A large quantity of plus size garments are already considerably more expensive than straight sized options, so it’s important to factor in the additional costs for the more eco-conscious brands. Upcycling is probably the only option that is truly size-inclusive as it’s a case of working with what you’ve already got. The downside, however, is that it often asks for time and some nifty DIY skills – two things many of us generally don’t have much of.
There’s also a big part of me that resents the upsurge of ethical fashion, because it can so often cause those who still choose to buy into fast fashion a great deal of shame, which ultimately redirects back to their bodies. I definitely feel guilt when I buy something from a fast fashion retailer. A number of my friends now have sustainable fashion/shopping pretty much down to an art, and I hate the fact that I’ve never left a vintage shop having bought anything (except for that time when I was 15 when I bought a skirt that really wasn’t my style, but I bought it anyway because it was the only thing that fitted). I rewear my clothes more often than not to the point of it being worn beyond repair, or, thanks to my forever fluctuating shape, until I physically can’t fit into them any more. That being said, access to fast fashion and ever-changing trends is a relatively new concept for the hoards of plus size people who have spent far too much time crying in changing rooms and making do with clothes that don’t reflect who they are, or make them feel good.
I can’t help but feel frustrated that, just as we’re able to start feeling good about the way we look and are feeling confident in what we wear, the tables have turned and now, just as we’re getting comfortable in the throes of fast fashion, sustainability is the new black. Sometimes I think about my wardrobe and upcoming seasonal trends, and get really bothered by the idea that at some point I’m going to buy something new – whether that be out of necessity or just because I really love a particular garment. I get both sad and angry for all the plus size customers out there who have just started to find themselves and explore their personal style, but will be met with opposition for choosing to enjoy fast fashion in a way that straight sizes have always been able to. Plus size people don’t want to be reduced to just a handful of options again – I can guarantee that we won’t have anywhere near as much fun running through the racks of a vintage store as a straight sized person might. I can’t help but feel that in places, plus size and sustainable fashion just isn’t that great of a fit. TL;DR Please don’t shame fat people for buying into fast fashion.
Do I think that sustainable fashion is important? Absolutely. I just hope that others can be conscious in their understanding of how sustainable fashion can – or can’t – be totally accessible to people outside of a standard size chart.
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